Essaouira
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Today, Essaouira is a much busier place than I remember back in the mid 1990s, there has been an explosion of riads and restaurants, although not all are up to the standards we have come to expect from Marrakech. In the centre there are two main streets, one through the Medina with shops (more sort of permanent market stalls) all along leading to the Bab Marrakech. Another smaller one which has a mixture of shops, restaurants and art galleries is for pedestrians only and leads from the square via the Maison du Sud.
The main square is a large open space surrounded on each side respectively by the harbour, town wall, sea wall and has one street leading into town with many restaurants, however, many of the newer restaurants are either near the sea wall and ramparts or along in the port, there is even a popular one right at the end of the harbour (Chez Sam) which has excellent Calamari. Although, we must admit, it is difficult to go wrong in Essaouira with fresh fish, there are many stalls in the harbour displaying the day's catch and an assistant who will gladly barbeque anything you require - seating is communal, just like the stalls in Marrakech's Djemma el Fna.
Along the sea front south from the port is a very long promenade and a huge beach, there is windsurfing, kite surfing and horse riding on the beach, sometimes you can do camel rides also. When the beach eventually fades to a narrower strip it continues in front of a long stretch of dunes, accessible in places from the Agadir road. In the other direction the road climbs inland towrds a panoramic viewpoint of the town and coast before heading down on its long way to Marrakech.
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