The Oued N'Fis Valley & Tin Mal Mosque
ref. - ITCTtoRAK10m
(5 1/2 hours hike)
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: GRADE ONE - WALKING MOSTLY ON PATHS AT LOWER LEVELS, SOMETIMES ROCKY, SELDOM FLAT, FOR ABOUT 6 HOURS EACH DAY. GOOD TRAINERS WOULD DO, BUT TAKE BOOTS IF YOU ARE USED TO THEM. FOR ANYONE WHO LEADS A REASONABLY ACTIVE LIFE. HIKING ALWAYS INVOLVES SOME EFFORT.

OUIRGANE CENTRE - IJOUKAK - KASBAH GOUNDAFA - TIN-MAL MOSQUE - MOULDIKHT - OUIRGANE CENTRE.

Meet up with your Mountain Guide in Ouirgane at 09:00 to drive with him to the Berber village of Ijoukak . Here, at the juncture of the Oueds n’Fis and Agoundis, we alight from our vehicle to set out for our 5 hour, 16km hike, first down what can best be compared to a country lane in the foothills of the Jbel Erdouz (3579m) passing the Berber villages of Souq Ijoukak, Tagountafte, Souk Larbâa and Ikhfe N’Boul until we arrive, after the first half an hour, at the riverside tribal kasbah of the once-powerful feudal chieftain Sultan Caïd Goundafa. The inner part of this now decaying palace-fortress, with storks nesting on the ramparts, still retains traces of its original Hispano-Arabesque decoration seems to have been built either in the late 17th century (or late in the 19th century, depending on whom is telling the tale).

This area is the traditional land of the Berber Goundafa tribe, one of several powerful tribes who strove to control the High Atlas Mountains in the 19th century. This feudal warrior of the old tradition constantly waged war with the neighbouring Glaoui clan, who burned down his kasbah of Talâat n’Yâcoub. As a result, this castle of Agadir n’Gouf was built. It was here that the Scottish author R.B Cunningham Graham had been detained at the Sultan’s convenience. In the 1920s, this became an outpost of the French Foreign Legion. On now to the partially ruined Goundafa stronghold of Talâat n’Yâcoub. From here we continue our easy walk down alongside the river, following contours of the high valley of the Assif Nfis, amidst stands of olive, walnut and almond trees until we come across the hauntingly-beautiful hidden Valley of Ijoukak, with its stream of clear, cool, slow-moving water full of trout, lined with hillside hamlets, orchards and ancient terraced irrigated fields.

After a further half an hour, we come to the small, remote stronghold settlement of Tin-Mal high up on the opposite bank of the river, giving all the appearance of a Lhasa-in-Muslim miniature, set amidst brown slopes, green shrubbery and seasonally snow-capped mountains. We are here to visit the fortress (and one-time state treasury) of high walls and strong towers, the sole survivor of the once holy 12th century city built by the founder of the Almohad (Unitarian) dynasty, Mehdi Ibn Toumarte, the only mosque in Morocco - other than the new mosque of Hassan II in Casablanca - into which a non-Muslim may enter - except on Fridays. We may enter the mosque, built by Abd el Moumen between 1153/54 (and sacked in 1276,) through a small, sturdy door in the corner of the main tower. Now roofless, deep shadows thrown by the surviving bas relief pisé columns and carefully restored arcades and horseshoe arches contrast with the large sunbaked wall. Intact amongst the ruins we witness the fine examples of the ancient, intricate and variety in Almohad décor of rosette, scallop and palmette. The mosque is T-shaped with a central aisle; but was there ever a minaret? There are three towers, which are unusual in that they are built above the actual prayer hall, yet minarets are always free-standing. Is the final restored work going to respect the original aura of austere puritanism of that once theocratic Almohad Islam? Cedar from Azrou is now used for the ceilings; a special lime has been imported from Spain; no cement or concrete is being used and the several cupolas have been restored in some areas with richly decorated stalactite plaster work.

In the actual village there is another small kasbah in ruins, a Medersa and an old water tank which produces a regular supply of the French gastronomic delight - edible frogs. And you might buy a litre of Tin-Mal olive oil from the olive press and mill down towards the river, where we shall have our picnic on the river’s banks. Refreshed, we set off towards the south down the valley of the Oued N’Fis through stands of juniper, Barbary fig, apricot, cherry and walnut tree, bypassing many Berber hamlets on the lower slopes of the Adrar Adafelt until we reach the town of Mouldikht at the beginning of the corkscrewing road up through the Tizi n’Test (3080m), where we rejoin our vehicle for long drive back up the delightful valley to Ouirgane.

Essentially, this walk takes you up and down a maximum of 600 metres and is not at all strenuous. It does take you up into charming hidden valleys and to meet the mountain Berber families in their own environment.

Cost for this tour:

- please call or email for a full quote - all our holidays are tailor-made and the cost of each trek is based upon the following:

* the number of people in your group (some hikes available for single travellers, one person FREE for groups of 10 or more);

* where you are starting from and to where you wish to travel at the end the hike;

* whether you are including any additional accommodation (e.g. in Imlil or Marrakech)

* extras such as WC tent or refuge accommodation, etc.

Our price includes:

Experienced, licensed bi-lingual mountain guide throughout. A field picnic lunch of fresh Moroccan salad, cheese, tinned tuna fish * , mint tea, bread, fruit.

* If vegetarian or vegan please pre-advise.

Our prices do not include:

Personal medical or accident insurance. Any expenditure of a personal nature. Bottled or gaseous water, nor anything not specifically mentioned in the itinerary.

It is recommended that you bring:

Walking boots or stout shoes suitable for walking, rambler pole (optional), Hat, sunscreen, nibbles, hygienic wipes, filled water bottle(s).

NB: all our prices are for land arrangements only (starting and finishing in Ouirgane), please contact us to arrange accommodation in Ouirgane or Marrakech hotels / riads as well as flights from your preferred airport if required.

Tel: + 44 (0) 1989 730 552 (UK)