After a Berber breakfast, break camp and set off towards the west on a 7 hour hike along mule trails through the village of Ameslane, on to and up at a steady pace through the Tizi n'Ameslane (2095m), with views of the distant Adrar Oukaimeden and Jbel Toubkal (at 4167m, the highest peak in the Maghreb). At this point your guide will prepare your field picnic before setting off, downhill through fields of corn and stands of olive, peach and almond trees into the Amsghouni Valley until you reach a cluster of small villages around Idsiat. From here strike out towards the west, now along well-trodden trails until you reach the village of Alla n'Mzeghn at the side of the Oued N'Fis. Now it's towards the south alongside the winding Oued down to the small town of Ijoukak at the crossroads of the Agoundis and N'fis Valleys.
From here, due to time available, your guide will rendezvous with your transport down to the Mosque at Tin-Mal. This small, remote stronghold settlement high up on the opposite bank of the river is set amidst brown slopes, green shrubbery and seasonally snow-capped mountains. Here your guide will take you to visit the fortress (and one-time state treasury) with its high walls and strong towers, the sole survivor of the once holy 12th century city built by the founder of the Almohad (Unitarian) dynasty, Mehdi Ibn Toumarte. This is the only mosque in Morocco - other than the mosque of Hassan II in Casablanca - into which a non-Muslim may enter - except on Fridays. You may enter the mosque, built by Abd el Moumen between 1153/54 (and sacked in 1276) through a small, sturdy door in the corner of the main tower. Now roofless, deep shadows thrown by the surviving bas relief pise columns and carefully restored arcades and horseshoe arches contrast with the large sunbaked wall. Intact amongst the ruins witness the fine examples of the ancient, intricate and variety in Almohad decor of rosette, scallop and palmette. Cedar from Azrou is now used for the ceilings; a special lime has been imported from Spain; no cement or concrete is used and the several cupolas have been restored in some areas with richly decorated stalactite plaster work.
In the actual village there is another small kasbah in ruins, a Medersa and an old water tank which produces a regular supply of the French gastronomic delight - edible frogs. And you might buy a litre of Tin-Mal olive oil from the olive press and mill down towards the river. Having tipped the watchman some 10 Dirhams apiece for his 'permission' to enter, rejoin your vehicle for the long drive back up the delightful Oued N'fis valley to Ouirgane [or Marigha].